![]() It's the exact same principle you'd use to glue in a "Dutchman" patch in an old dining table or something. Also, since I do this with chisels I always make the patch first, because I want to trace around it and get a nice, snug fit in the body. I also make sure to orient the grain in the same direction, so keep that in mind that helps to prevent paint telegraphing later on, since the patch and body woods will expand and contract at slightly different rates. This piece is slightly wider than the stud spacing by at least the width of a stud Floyd studs are spaced at 74mm on-center (84mm outside-to-outside), so I'd make the patch about 95-100mm wide. Here's how I do it (also note that I prefer using a good sharp chisel rather than a router, but either works just as well as long as you're confident with that particular tool): first I'll cut out a rectangular piece of maple, between 1/4" and 3/8" thick. ![]() Repairing that kind of break is a major PITA, so I prefer to prevent it instead. I like doing it before paint goes on because it's not that difficult and it really gives some peace of mind later on. OP, you don't need to reinforce that area, but I personally do it on all of my bodies that are softer woods (alder, basswood and poplar.) There's always the potential for a trem stud to break through on softer woods, and it was actually quite common on a lot of the Floyd-equipped Fenders in the 80's and 90's due to the way they routed the pickup cavity. Crap, that reminded me that I was going to bring that up too!
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |